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The focal length of the lens plays an important role in choosing what is an acceptable exposure length. You also need to use a long exposure, but this is where it becomes tricky. With wide apertures, be sure to check the depth of field to see what appears in focus.

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A good starting point is ISO 3200 together with an aperture of f/2.8, or if you can, an even wider aperture like f/1.8. To gather enough light to make an image like this work, you need a very high ISO. Milky Way: ISO 6400, f/2.8, 30sec (small lights were used to illuminate the trees) In the example above, I needed to crank up the ISO to 6400 to allow for an acceptable exposure. Oftentimes when choosing a very fast shutter speed, light levels may not be enough to use low ISO values, so we then need to increase the ISO to allow for a good exposure. These fast shutter speeds will also eliminate any camera shake caused by hand-holding a lens. My suggested minimum shutter speed to get sharp images of birds in flight would be 1/2000 sec for big birds and 1/3200 or faster for smaller birds. So, if we start out with a wide aperture, we need to dial in a fast shutter speed depending on the chosen subject. In wildlife photography, a wide aperture is often used to help blur out the background creating good separation between the subject and background.

Depending on the size of the bird, a very fast shutter speed is needed.

Too much motion blur will ruin the photo (unless you intentionally want that effect). When it comes to photographing birds in flight, one of the most important aspects of the exposure triangle to get right is the shutter speed. It is possible to nail sharp shots at very slow shutter speeds.īird In Flight: ISO 6400, f/5.6, 1/2000sec TIP: Start by taking a couple photos at faster shutter speeds, and as you get keepers, keep slowing your exposure down and dropping the ISO and see if you can get a few keepers at lower ISO’s with slower shutter speeds. Good support will allow for slower shutter speeds on long lenses. Having said that, if you have good support for your camera and lens or have image stabilization activated, try something a bit slower. Therefore, if you are using a 500mm focal length, start with 1/500sec as your shutter speed. As a rule of thumb, choose a shutter speed that is equal to your focal length. I find a shutter speed of 1/250sec a good starting point for static mammals.Īn important factor to take into consideration when choosing an acceptable shutter speed for your wildlife photography is the focal length of your lens. Also, if I were to slow my shutter speed down too much I would have introduced motion blur in the image, caused either by subject movement or camera shake. I would never have captured this image with ISO 200 for example, it would have been way too underexposed. Third, you need an acceptable ISO to allow for a good exposure. Don’t waste valuable light by using a shutter speed that is too fast. Secondly, you need a slow enough shutter speed that will freeze any movement in your subject. Choose an acceptable aperture relative to your subject and what you want to be in the plane of focus. When choosing an aperture, remember how it affects the depth of field on the subject. In the above example I used f/5.6 as that was the widest my lens could go, but ideally I would have liked something like f/2.8. In a low-light wildlife portrait you need a wide aperture to let in as much light as possible. Low-light Portrait: ISO 4000, f/5.6, 1/250sec (a spotlight was used to illuminate the Leopard)

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